Auto belays are simply fantastic. They turn climbing into an experience as pure and accessible as bouldering.
You can just hammer a route on an autobelay. It’s just you and the climb at that point.
With an auto belay, you can go as hard as you can, fall, and let the device catch you – all without losing your focus. It’s a meditative experience, and I’d say there’s honestly no better way to push your limits either.
And no, climbing with an auto belay isn’t for loners. It simply eliminates the need for belaying, but doesn’t automatically exclude you from climbing with your friends.
In fact, you and your friends can push yourselves harder than ever before, because you won’t need to conserve enough strength to safely belay each other. You can climb until your arms stop working, and then let your friend take over and do the same.
It’s a beautiful experience.
Oh, and in case you’re wondering, yes, auto belays work just fine outdoors. You simply set one up attached to your usual top anchor, and rappel down off the auto belay, feeling like the Navy SEAL you are, deep down.
Let’s take a look at the best auto belay out there.
The Best Overall Auto Belay: The OmniProGear Trublue XL
I’m just going to go straight in and tell you the most important things about wonderful little machine.
Consistent Descent Velocity
First of all, it lowers you at 6 feet per second.
“Surely that’s an average speed? What about at different heights and weights?”
Nope. That’s the speed at which it lowers you, period.
It’s all thanks to the Trueblue’s self-regulating magnetic braking system.
It’s the Only Auto Belay on the Market That Has Self-Regulating Magnetic Braking
This patented braking system is amazing because it doesn’t rely on friction to provide the braking action.
There’s no friction pads or any contacting parts at all that are required for braking, pretty much eliminating all the main components of an auto belay that eventually cause it to wear out.
Not only does that make the Trueblue drastically less prone to wear than any other auto belay, but it also makes it remarkably consistent in its braking action.
And, it goes without saying, a consistent descent speed is pretty much the holy grail of auto belays. There’s no problems with getting it to activate, or having uncomfortable drops before the device kicks in.
You’ll know it’ll catch you, but more importantly, you’ll know when it’ll catch you and how you’ll descend.
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